Saturday May 19th
Last Sunday we made the decision to go to visit Bempton Cliffs in East Yorkshire. The B&B is booked, the restaurant is booked, the car is packed to the gills again and we are on our way by 7.00am . Just short of 4 hours and a drizzly drive we arrive at the RSPB reserve. We have been looking forward to this all week. The main reason for the visit is to see some Puffins and we are hopeful that today will be the day.
The weather is not good, quite cold, extremely windy and very overcast. Not put off by this we don our wet weather gear. Load up with the camera, bins and scopes and battle our way to the cliffs. First thing we get is the smell, very pungent fishy smell. Now today as I have said is cold and tres windy so the smell is very mild compared to what it must be like when it is a hot sunny day and the birds are feeding the chicks. I can only imagine the smell must nearly choke you.
First sight of the towering cliffs is awe inspiring, or should it be plummeting cliffs as we are on the top looking down. It is sheer cliff face and a very long way down and the sea is raging below. Thousands of sea birds are literally clinging to the cliff face, how they manage it & why they think it is a good place to lay eggs is quite beyond reason. Some look like they are really clinging on for dear life. However when they need to feed or just stretch their wings they just literally float into the air. No great launching or flapping of wings they just step off the cliff & away they go like us stepping off a kerb & crossing the road.
We get up close to some Gannets and can see the beautiful markings on their faces like someone has been at them with a felt tip. We think they are very beautiful & it is so nice to see them so close up. There are 5 viewing points in all and we battle our way along the cliff top, the wind is so strong at times you are unable to move. Mr F has managed to get spattered with bird poo, down his face & jacket. Well whats good for Simon King is good enough for him.
The elusive Puffin is spotted, a small bird quite comical in flight as it is on land but everybody loves them and shouts of “Puffin” go up as one is spotted. There are not many here, against the thousands and thousands of Razor Bills, Guillemots and Gannets. Not to mention Kittiwakes, Herring gulls & the occasional Fulmar. We really loved it but the weather was tiring so after about 3 hours we gave in. Had taken over 400 photo’s though.
I have never been to this part of the world so we headed up the coast to Scarborough. We managed to park and walked down past some more cliff where the RSPB were introducing people to the local Peregrine Falcons who were periodically terrorizing the local Kittiwake population. We walk along the front the wind is really quite cold now, but there are donkeys on the beach and the children are excitedly waiting for their go. The front is just one mass of amusements, rock shops and seafood stalls. We are looking out for a pub, need to warm up a bit you understand. The choice is quite limited and unless we want karaoke or to be ambushed by various and many hen parties it is not looking good. We do manage to find some where that does not have drunk people hanging out of the front door (par for the course here and it is only 4pm!!) and we manage a quick drink. There is live music - you cannot escape “entertainment” in this neck of the woods, it is however very good in this particular pub.
The Hotel in Bridlington (it's a guest house) is ok, until we are shown to the room. A deluxe double. Well, it had a double bed but was smaller than our room at home and had rather an unpleasant aroma of toilet! An open window soon sorted that out. The room was nice the bed comfy and clean. A quick wash & brush up and we are hitting Bridlington nightlife. We are told by mine host that there is “entertainment” in most hotels and pubs in the town so just make a choice. For entertainment read - karaoke or a singer and yes they are everywhere.
We stop off at a pub that looks slightly better than others. We are later told that it is the worst. Mark Santana (not his real name I am thinking) is holding forth at the karaoke machine. He sounds just like a comedian doing an impersonation of an “entertainer” it is hilarious and very bad but everyone there is having a good time and are “very happy” or just very pissed.
The Naked Fish is our restaurant of choice an upmarket chippy with a restaurant upstairs. Although it would appear that no one eats out in Bridlington The Restaurant is empty apart from one other table. The waitress tells what they DONT have and that includes a wine list. Things are not looking good. But they do have wine. “We have an UNSMOKED chardonnay if you want dry or a sauvignon blanc thats dry as well”. No red wine was mentioned.
The food however was truly excellent. I had Local Scallops with Pancetta and Mr F had mussels in a very garlicky sauce. The garlic sauce followed us around all the following day and I bet halfway to Dubai where Ian was going on Monday. I then had haddock & chips and Mr F had Sea Trout. They were the best fish & chips I have ever ever eaten. Truly magnificent. Cooked in the traditional Yorkshire way in beef fat - OMG divine. Sarah you would just have had to forget the word beef for one night as you could not have resisted them.
Our waitress just sat down & chatted away the evening with us and gave us the low down on where to go later on for some entertainment and where to go the following day.
No pudding was offered not that we had room or the desire for one so we bade our farewells and made of up the prom to the Marine bar!
After a good 20 minute walk we find the aforementioned Marine bar which was full of people in their 60’s and 70’s. Feeling somewhat put out that the waitress thought we fitted in this category we grudgingly ordered a drink. It was fine and the somewhat aged clientele provided great people watching. It is amazing how many of them sat there & did not utter one word to their other half the whole evening. “Are we having a good time yet?”
We are close to the Guest House, sorry I mean hotel (10 rooms) and soon were downloading our photos onto the iPad. I love my iPad!
Woken at an ungodly hour by a Herring gull squawking it’s head off, it was so loud I would not have been surprised to have seen it sitting on the end of the bed. Shut the window and back to sleep only to be woken by the alarm 8.15. Sleeeeepppy.
Still full from last night I am not really fancying a full English but we will not eat until tonight so I went for the cut down version. However this did not work as because I did not have black pudding, fried bread etc they gave me extra sausage & bacon.
Now for some more exploring before time to go home. My we did do a lot or am I just waffling on??
In an endeavor to walk off the Full English we find Danes Dyke which are some prehistoric workings. Anyway it is a beautiful little valley that leads down to the sea. The track is lined with wild flowers. Primrose, Bluebells, Corn-cockles and a mass of wild garlic. Now after last nights mussels Mr F has suddenly blended into the natural aroma of things. After a short walk we reach the beach, tide is out and a wide stretch of sand awaits some footprints. Firstly we have to scramble over a line of white stones, they are very smooth and very white, chalk, all different sizes but mainly the same pebble shape. One thing is they have the most peculiar holes in them, smooth like someone has drilled into them. I have looked on t’internet but cannot find out what made them.
Moving on we go to Flamborough head and another walk around. The coastline is stunning, more photo’s some more birds and some more of the fresh sea air. Another quick stop off at Bempton cliffs, more Puffins Hurrah. We are glad that we made the effort yesterday as today the Gannets were not hanging in the air so none of those magnificent shots that we managed to get yesterday.