Mrs F's Diary: April 2014

Ok I know I am late with this but here it is now.

Saturday 15^th March 2014 – Destination Malta.

Taxi is 15 minutes early but we are ready so we arrive at Heathrow in plenty of time to do a bit of damage in the duty free. The flight to Malta is just over 3 hours from Heathrow so after Mr F has done his usual “falling asleep as soon as he sits on a plane” I am soon waking him up as we are going to land.

Once we locate our taxi driver at the other end, in a short time we are pulling up outside the grand entrance to the Phoencia Hotel in Floriana, just outside the walls of Valleta.

Now there is a bit of trouble as it is cloudy and a cold wind blowing and we are not happy with the room we are allocated. The room is soon sorted out but the weather continues to be dull and chilly. Our new room has a view of the Grand harbour cool!

We walk into Valetta just a few minutes before we hit the main street (more about hitting the street later). Our mission for the moment is to find somewhere for dinner. We have already done our homework and found some possibilities. On route I pop into a lovely shop & spy a peach scarf that I save in my memory for a purchase later in the week.

Restaurants checked out. Back to the hotel and time for a glass of wine and then face the unpacking. All soon done & it is not long before we are back in the palm room waiting for Anne & Joyce to join us. They arrive on time & soon we are all enjoying a drink and catch up before dining in the hotel, we decided that we were all a bit jaded and would hit the town tomorrow.

After a somewhat restless sleep, hotel aircon was in winter mode so the room was warm; we made good headway into the feast that was breakfast.

We then made plans for the rest of the week booking our trips etc. We caught the hop on hop off bus and did the tour of the south of the island. The wind was still blowing quite strongly so it was a tad chilly on the bus but the sun was shining and the view fantastic. We went straight to Marsaxlokk where there was a fish market, it was very crowded but we managed some good shots of the very fresh if not strange looking fish and the lovely harbour. Stopped for a beverage and got back on the bus. Next stop is the blue grotto, we had planned to go on a boat trip here but it was very choppy out at sea so we went and had lunch instead. Bit of a bun fight to get a bus back but it was no problem really.

That night we hit the town for dinner, walking through Vallettas magnificient fortifications and onto the main street. We had only gone a short way when I hear a cry out and feel a knock on my bottom. First thought was that someone had knocked into us, as I quickly turn round I see Anne lying flat out, face down. We try to see what damage has been done, she maybe tough but really is a bit fragile these days. Anyway soon we have stolen a chair from nearby restaurant and thank goodness nothing broken. It is amazing what flashes through your mind in times of emergency. I thought that she might have been attacked, some one trying to steal a bag or something, a stroke or worse. It was nothing more sinister than getting her sandal caught in the bottom of some very flouncy trousers which were later consigned to the rubbish bin at the hotel. We then gingerly make our way to the restaurant where the first bottle of wine does not hit the sides!

The food was excellent and we all enjoyed a superb dinner.

We were expecting Anne to be badly bruised and in pain the next day and although not unscathed it was not so bad as feared and did not interfere with her holiday. We all managed another hearty breakfast before we explore the Waterfront in Valletta do a bit of shopping, have a beer or coffee and then watch the 12 noon gun salute. Which was quite hilarious. The Solider looked like Eddie the eagle. His trousers had had a severe argument with his ankles, they definitely were not speaking to each other and had not been for some considerable time. After making a show of marching up and down stamping his feet in military style and setting up the fuses, the clock strikes 12.

With much pompous ado and simultaneous shouting of “Fire” he pulls string that is attached to the detonator and a great big …. Nothing. Much laughing from the crowd. He then stamps his way over to the second cannon. This time no shouting of fire but we do get a big explosion and a lot of smoke.

See what I mean about the trousers

We grab some lunch before heading back to the hotel and a lie in the sunshine.

Dinner that night was in restaurant called Angelicas we were well & truly ripped off here, the place looked really interesting from the outside and the menu held great promise. It did not deliver in any aspect and ended up probably being the most expensive and we hardly had anything to eat. A light lunch might describe it best. Anyway if you want more detail read my trip advisor review. I have got 10 useful votes on it so I am pleased I saved some diners from being scammed. We did have some lovely chilli popcorn, which we wanted to buy. Our waitress told us that they had sold out, however the owner said no it was this flavour that they had plenty of. I should have questioned her as I knew mirin was not chilli but we went ahead and bought some anyway. Yes you guessed it another lie.

I take total blame for this choice of restaurant (Café) but I did not read trip advisor before I went lesson learnt.

The next day – where are we now must be Tuesday. We do the other hop on hop off tour round the North of the island. The scenery is much better as this part of the island is not so built up. We stop off to view a church in Mosta where a bomb came in through the dome when the church was full. The bomb did not explode and no one was hurt. We then went to Mdina a beautiful walled city. Sat high up over looking the countryside, had a light lunch and a thirst quenching beer before spending a fortune in Mdina glass. Hand luggage may be a bit big going home.

You are never far from the sea in Malta and we enjoyed a grand journey back to Valletta. Not so breezy today and nice & sunny but the wind is still cool. Our faces are all glowing, sun & wind burn.

Dinner that night was in a restaurant called Guze – best place to eat on the whole holiday we ate the most magnificent John Dory, lots of little extra tasting bites, beautiful bread and tomato paste and excellent service. We had a great time and no one fell down! Not even me.

Wednesday, Joyce, Ian & I go birding. Strange thing for Malta I know but there are some bird lovers there rather than bird murderers. We had a trying if not amusing time getting there as our taxi driver must have taken us through every back street known to Maltese man. He talked constantly and would have won a prize on having padded out the shortest story to make it of epic proportions, if there had been a prize going. We were glad to say goodbye when we reached the nature reserve that is Ghaderia. Nick and his father met us at the gate and soon were showing us the birds that they had caught in the mist nets that very morning. Later we walk round to one of the hides and stop by some more nets. Great excitement they had caught a Bluethroat. Nicks dad Raymond is very excited and says we have brought them good luck and thanks us. I am spell bound by this sapphire throated beauty but it is popped into a bag for weighing later.

There are not many birds passing through at the moment as the migration does not get goimg for a couple of weeks yet. Soon we go back to weigh and measure the birds. Word is out that we have a Bluethroat and a mini twitch is on.

After visiting another reserve we head up to the coast and visit the most wonderful limestone pavement. We are looking for birds but the flora there is stunning. I don’t think I have ever seen so many native plants in place and with the azure sea as a backdrop a beautiful place indeed. Nick takes us to quite few places but there are no more birds to be seen, we head back to the hotel and say our grateful thank yous. For such a young man Nick was passionate about Malta and the nature of his country. He is a very pleasant, intelligent, knowledgeable man and gave his time & knowledge freely and eagerly we were so lucky to have met him and his father. A great day. 4 lifers for me & 2 for the more experienced Joyce. So actually a really great day.

Cettis Warbler

Chameleon

Guess what this is

Isabeline Warbler & the green flowered plant is fennel

Find the Blue Rock Thrush

Nick Releasing a bird

Measuring

Twitchers or Photograhers

Weighing a Chiffchaff

Dinner that night was in Da Office. A restaurant of typical Maltese cuisine. More Rabbit was consumed here but not by me, I cannot bring myself to eat a bunny. Hypocrite I know, I know.

Up early the next day as we are off to GOZO. We are told our taxi is here. Hmm we get into a smelly, shoddy people carrier. Not what we have been used to. We are then taken to another hotel where our driver disappears. Comes back grabs some papers & then disappears again. We get a bit agitated as we have a ferry to catch. I go to chase him up but he will not speak to me. It quite obvious to us all that we have got in the wrong cab. Eventually he takes us back to our hotel where our VIP taxi awaits us. Our driver goes at break neck speed and we meet the ferry just before it departs.Lucky for us it was 10 mins or so in leaving.The crossing is quick and at €4.80 pp return a complete bargain, it takes about 15 – 20 minutes to cross. We are on the look out for sea ducks but nothing doing.

A rickety hop on hop off bus awaits us at the other side of the Comino channel. Gozo is much more rural than Malta, it is again very cool on the bus & I am soon wishing that I had used my better judgement and worn full length trousers. You actually don’t get that long to explore around and the hop on hop off’s finish early so we have to make sure we are back on the ferry early enough. So we decide that we will make Victoria our main attraction. I was expecting a rather grand place but it was very quiet with a few shops, a couple of churches and a sprinkling of places to eat and not a lot to do. We did manage to find some Gozo sea salt and some of the lovely Olives that others have enjoyed. Anne & I managed to get separated from Ian & Joyce, and we spent 10 minutes or looking for our way back to the bus but were fine, honestly we were.

We had a less fraught journey back to the hotel where we soon got changed and out for dinner. We ate again in Capistrano, more rabbit was consumed, Ian had a beautiful shellfish soup, quite light but he struggled with the main course of stuffed rabbit loin. He did manage a pudding though and we had a taste of prickly pear liquor which was a pleasant surprise, sweet & fruity.

Friday was spent walking around Valletta, then we got the lift down to the harbour and a ferry across to the three cities. Today was much warmer and we enjoyed a mooch about, taking it easy before traveling home again tomorrow. Anyway we had a busy time and I was ready for a relaxing day. However we did manage a fair amount of walking. The day was finished off with a sleep down by the pool in the hotel.

Dinner that night was in celebration of Joyce’s birthday as indeed the whole holiday was. We dined in style at Angelicas – ha ha only joking. We returned to Guze and dined in excellent surroundings with exceptional service again. We were not terribly hungry to include a starter but mine host suggested the Maltese platter to share. Cold meats, cheese , pate, olives, sun dired tomatoes, bread are what I can remember of it now but is was lovely. Fresh fish was the order of the mains, polished off with some very nice wines. Some people probably had a pudding I cant remember. I expect we managed a night cap in the club bar back at the hotel as had become the norm for Ian & I at least. The bar man there could be entertaining but also could be a pest and an irritation. However he did a good line in free canapés, chocolate & crisps. We also gave me a taste of the local soft drink, Kinne, a bitter orange fizzy drink. Not to my liking but tradionally drunk whilst partaking of the other local delicacy Pastizza a pouch shaped pastry case filled with cheese or mushy peas. Hmm well I was not impressed with them either.

We had time for a quick but excellent bowl of pasta at Guze on the Saturday before saying our goodbyes and making our way to the airport and home.

I have forgotten many things that we did and saw on this busy but lovely holiday. One thing was the occasional but very heady aroma of Orange Blossom that invaded your senses another is cats, pussy cats everywhere, but plumptious not scrawny like most holiday cats. Ooh and balconies and oh well there are so many things to do & places to see here. I would recommend you go and experience them soon.
One last thing, well nearly. no two clocks in Malta tell the same time. Churches nearly always have 2 clocks and they will always show different times. Something with confusing the devil. Well it certainly confused us - now what does that mean ??

Oh I nearly forgot, did I get that peach scarf? Of course I did, and a green one and a pale apricot one and a brown one and one for my friend's 30th birthday.

Bird List

Bluethroat

Sardinian Warbler and nest with 2-day-old chicks (very tiny)

Black Winged Stilt

Azure Headed Wagtail

Little Ringed Plover

Common Sandpiper

Cettis Warbler

Chiffchaff

Willow Warbler

Robin

Tree Pipit