1.45 am is not the best time to be getting up in the
morning, but seeing as we were headed for Italian or should I say Sicilian sun
it was not too painful. Very soon we were boarding our flight 6.10 am to
Catania. Mr F fought hard to not go to sleep especially as Suranne Jones was
sitting behind us. She transfixed him and the poor woman had to endure him
taking a peek (read staring) at her at every given opportunity. However sleep
finally overtook him as per usual. The flight was 2 hrs. 45 ish so very soon we
were queuing for our luggage and heading for the exit.
Lucca (Gino d’Acampo look like) was waiting for us and
whisked us at high speed, in a black limo with tinted windows, very mafia, up
the motorway towards Taormina, our home for the week. We donned our shades to complete the look,
hahha. The traffic was heavy, with mad Italian drivers hurtling along &
cutting us up. Lucca was not impressed a, by the heavy traffic and b, by the idiot
that kept cutting us up. Me? I was just glad that we had a driver I did not
have to cope with this ourselves.
The day was very hot and very sunny. We checked into the
Excelsior palace hotel, well the room was not ready; as we were early it is
still only 11.30. So a mooch into town and a cool glass of wine in the sunshine
soon had us in holiday mode.
The hotel was in my opinion typically Italian, that is tired
and old fashioned. Our room was adequate in décor, but had a large bed with
crisp clean sheets and a decent view. This type of holiday you don’t need a
balcony or fancy room so it was fine. (After I had got over my initial
disappointment) The rest of the hotel was nice, bit Agatha Christy in décor,
the staff were ok some were as old as the hotel mind! They were celebrating 100
years this year and I am sure some of the breakfast staff must have been
originals.
The pool was a short walk down some 75 steps; it was very
quiet and peaceful there. Because the average age of the clientele was 70 there
was no fighting for sun beds, however my pet holiday hate was here, which is
people who drag sunbeds aimlessly around making an obscene racket whilst I am
trying to read or snooze. It drives me mad. Sun beds have wheels USE THEM!!!!!!
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| Swallowtail Butterfly by the pool |
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| View from the pool |
Also there were a few groups on tours staying in the hotel
and if you timed it wrongly the breakfast buffet looked liked a swarm of locust
had demolished it. We did how ever enjoy watching a particularly dishevelled
lady, who must have forgotten to pack her hairbrush, stuff her pockets with
bread and cakes every morning.
After our little drink in the sunshine a siesta was called
for so we headed for a sunbed and a snooze. Ian woke me up to tell me it was
raining, welcome to Italy (It always rains in Italy don’t believe anyone who
says different) We shower and get changed for dinner, then watch the torrential
downpour from the window. However very soon it stops and we head out, it is a
very warm evening so lovely to be able to sit out or promenade in the evening
sun.
The main street in Taormina is lined with quaint shops, high-class
boutiques, restaurants and gelateri. There are also several churches and we see
quite a few weddings. The bride & groom promenade along after taking their
vows and friends & family strut along after them. They are all immaculately dressed, beautiful
tailored suits, dresses and shoes & handbags all carefully matched. Ooh
that polished Italian look that only Italians can carry off. Strains of
“Volare” fill the air; you could not be anywhere other than Italy.
Dinner – we are quite hungry now and sip a glass of Prosecco
whilst we peruse the menu. We have
fabulous pasta, I chose prawn and scampi and Ian had pasta Alla Norma. Washed
it down with a local wine from Etna. Shared a tiramisu and headed for bed at
9.30. Well it has been a long but packed day.
Sunday morning woke to glorious sunshine and threw the
windows open only to shut them just a quickly. There were hundreds and hundreds
of House Martins flying around, as we were on the top floor they were at eye
level and I was afraid they might fly into the room. They soon all headed out
to sea so I think they were feeding before heading off to Africa.
There is a fantastic view of Mount Etna this morning, so
cameras at the ready we head of down the deserted streets. Taking note of any
good restaurants for later, we walk all the way to the cable car but decide to
leave it for another day. I am not too keen to go on it but I will. There are
lots of ceramic shops selling the most wonderful things if only you could get
them home.
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| Now this is what you call a garden table! |
There are many ice cream shops we have not yet succumbed but
it is on the list as is an Arancini and a Cannoli, More about them later. We
spend the afternoon sunbathing & snoozing. Not seen many birds yet but
quite a few green lizards darting around, alternatively lifting their feet as
if they are getting burned. You can almost hear them going. Ooh aah ooh ah
Dinner tonight consisted of a shared Melanzane alla Parmigianino;
so good I almost had to fight Ian to get my share. Then I had meatballs cooked
in Lemon leaves and Ian had wood fired pizza. We were extremely tired and were
in bed again by 10.
The following night – bit of a foodie thing going on here
you know! We ate in Osteria Divino Rosso. It is run by 2 young ladies whose
knowledge of food, wine and marketing is exceptional. Local produce so fresh,
super healthy, no cream or cheese with the fish, which is so very fresh. To
start we had a baby aubergine stuffed with fish in sauce and baked in the oven.
Then we had a red snapper cooked Sicilian style with giant capers, olives, the
tiniest baby tomatoes, pine nuts and raisins it was mouth wateringly
marvellous. Whilst we were making up our mind about what to eat we enjoyed a
super dry rose prosecco. A local Etna white slightly oaked, but only slightly
which gave it a bit of body, accompanied the fish. We had a glass of dessert
wine although we had no dessert, a gift on the house. Well you can’t say no can
you?
Tuesday Tour of Etna and Wine tasting extravaganza yippee.
We were not sure if we had actually managed to book this
tour as we had a bit of tooing & froing with the company as to which tour
we were doing.
But bang on 9am Sebastiano another Gino sized Sicilian sauntered
towards us, sunglasses glinting in the bright sunlight. Bonjourno.
He drives at break neck speed down the
motorway through the dimly lit tunnels that snake through the mountains.
Sebastiano gesticulates wildly with both hands off the steering wheel, about
Etna erupting and the lava flows. The car weaves slightly and thoughts of
Princess Di in a tunnel creep into my mind and we hurtle on. Soon we are off
the main roads and into a more rural landscape. We receive a geography lesson
about Teutonic plates Africa and Europe. How the island was formed and the
difference in the volcanic land and the mountain lands. The mountains are very
barren and the volcanic very lush. There is a discernible line as we pass from
one to another. We stop in the town of Zaffarano and look out over the valley.
We visit the church and Sebastiano points out cracks in the ceiling from
earthquakes. We also see huge cracks in houses and a school that has been
abandoned as it so badly damaged. All of the houses here are built from the
lava, basalt rock. It is dark and heavy good for building. We then go to a
honey farm and taste the different honey, see the bees with their leg pouches
stuffed full of pollen. Some are bright orange and some pale yellow. We get to
taste some pollen, which is said to have great properties in helping the immune
system. We then move onto the lava flow from 1992 it has literally stopped 5
foot or so short of a house. The ground is lunar in appearance but already
things are starting to grow. The soil is like cinders that you are left with
after a fire but it is so fertile, quite unbelievable it looks so hostile.
We then move on to the first winery, it is
nice and warm the air is very clean and a breeze blows across the vines as we
look out from this amazing property Barone Di Villagrande. We are shown around
and told the history of the place and how they have moved to modern wine making
practices. The wine that was made years ago was good but just table wine. Now
with modern technology and a better understanding of the terroir, fine wine is
produced. The lady that shows us around is passionate about the winery and the
wines. She used to work in London and is quite excited to talk to us about
places she worked in. They have created a few luxury rooms and a beautiful pool
made from the quarried lava rocks it is quite expensive to stay there but a
piece of paradise.
We are then taken to a tasting room where we
are poured generous glasses of 2 whites and 2 reds a food plate of cheeses,
ham, olives of which I ate 2 and a bruschetta of capers. There were also savory
biscuits made from chestnuts. It was extremely well done. we then had a dessert
wine. And beautiful wafer thin crispy almond biscuits.
Soon we say arrivadercci with kisses from (never did actually understand what she was called) and find Sebastiano who is looking a bit tired. We are
now on our way to another winery. We pass through forests of chestnuts, hazel
nuts and almonds. Orange, lemon trees and even a grove of apples trees.
Sebastiano points out more lava flow and gives us more history of the land.
The
second winery Gambino is more commercial and is brand new. Lots of tables in a
high ceilinged contemporary building. Each table is laid up with several wine
glasses. Which glint in the afternoon sun. We are given a welcome glass of
white wine and shortly are escorted over to the terrace where we overlook the
vineyard and the valley. Here we are given a talk on the land, oenology and mineralogy.
The talk is extremely interesting and once again they say about how they now have
the knowledge to make a fine wine, we are then taken to our table where 2 large
plates of food are laid out plus bread. More white wine is poured and then a
rose. The bottles are left on the table for us to help ourselves. Later red
wine is brought poured and explained. One is named Tifeo after a giant that is
said to sleep inside the volcano. Lets hope no one disturbs him whilst we are
here.
Perfectly fed and only slightly merry
honestly, we pile back into the car and head back towards the hotel. We do have
one last stop off at Castiglione di Sicilia and walk to the old Greek fortress
and admire the breathtaking views over the Alcantara valley. Shortly followed
by a quick peek at the Alcantara gorge created from an old lava eruption.
Much later that evening we share some pasta
and then watch a storm brewing out at sea. Incredible forked lightening that
went on for about an hour or maybe even longer. The whole sky just lit up it
was like a very expensive firework display what a grand finale to a grand day.
We have a much better video of this.
Wednesday
- After our hectic day yesterday we plan to relax & read a bit in
the sunshine. Plans are thwarted early afternoon, as it is clouding over and a
few rain showers appear. We saunter down the main street and do the shops.
Later we find a wine bar & put our new knowledge of Sicilian wines to the
test.
Thursday is Mr. F’s birthday, I wake early as usual. Having also been woken
several times in the night by my beloved drinking out of a plastic bottle,
crackle crackle pop pop. Grr.
Weather is cloudy as predicted so after
breakfast we follow Ian itinerary of interesting buildings.
We do the
Amphitheatre that has stunning views. Although cloudy it is an incredibly hot day. So
after a couple of hours we stop for refreshment. I have an Aperol Spritz that
is a bright orange drink that the ladies seem to enjoy. It is Aperol (orange
bitters) prosecco and soda. Very nice & refreshing. We also have an
Arancini (Italian scotch eggs, made with rice and various fillings) and sit
outside a bar that looks very inviting and I have promised myself a sit here
all week. Everything ticked off the list the sun comes out so we go back to the
hotel to enjoy the sunshine and relax before the birthday dinner.
A return visit to Rosso Divino is Mr. F’s
choice of venue and we are not disappointed. A glass of prosecco to welcome us
is proffered, and enjoyed. We are shown a basket of fresh porcini mushrooms and
various methods of cooking are debated. We choose it for a starter Carpaccio
style with wild rocket, Parmesan and lemon. I had fish pasta for main & Ian
had the best tuna of his whole life. Just seared and served with caramelized
onions that had been cooked in red wine. An excellent bottle of red wine very
light like a pinot Noir but Sicilian accompanied the meal. Both feeling in need
of something sweet we opt to share a peach flambéed and served with ice cream. When
it arrived it was the size of a small Galia melon – massive. It was so sweet,
juicy and deliciously warm with a hint of booziness in the background. We were
given a glass of dessert wine to accompany it, it was a perfect match. Bed
10.30 a late night!
We had a marvelous holiday, would have liked
to have seen a bit more sunshine and less rain but could not complain about the
temperature, not even a cardigan was required. Lots more to tell but have gone
on enough me thinks. Do however prompt me to tell you the story of the DIY boob
job, I happened to overhear poolside one afternoon.
Despite all that food & wine – sounds a
lot but really we were sensible – not too much damage was registered on the
bathroom scales upon our return
We do so love the culture of the evening
stroll in warm air, pausing to talk drink & nibble a while watching the
world go by…. Till the next time then.
Ah I forgot to mention this little sweetie
and his mum who won the hearts of all the guests at the hotel. There was no
fear that they would go hungry or thirsty in fact I think they must be the size
of Tigers by now.
