Approximately an hour and 20 minutes later we safely land to a wet and rainy Scotland. Heavy snow had been forecast but no sign of it yet. Luggage collected and met by our driver we are soon heading towards Grantown on Spey and the Grant Arms which will be our home for the next 6 nights. I spoke too soon about the snow and it is not long before we are engulfed in a horizontal blizzard. It is spectacular and winter wonderland perfect as we head across the moors towards the Cairngorm National Park.
Initial impression of the hotel is that it is a bit tired. We have a large bedroom and large en-suite so no complaints about tiny rooms. Although there are 2 fires in the hotel they are not real fires a real let down we feel. We head off to the lounge and bump into Iolo Williams who is going to be one of our guides this week. We have a quick chat and grab a glass of wine before our welcome briefing. We discuss the weeks itinerary over a glass of cava ( glad the fad of Prosecco has not reached here).
There are 12 of us on the tour. We are spilt into 2 groups. Ian and I quickly realise that we are in the wrong one. John is grumpy and rude to the extent I thought he must have some sort of mental illness. Sue is deaf can’t use binoculars and is also rather blunt in a School Marm sort of way. Anne, Johns wife is nice as is her brother Steve. However Steve doesn’t say much if anything. Ian and I of course are our usual perfect selves.
The other group has more experienced birders, but not to the seriously boring stage, Which is perfect. We have also drawn the short straw as the other team get Iolo to drive them for 3 days. Mrs Mumpy has arrived.
We all go to the restaurant for a lovely dinner, the food here is excellent. There is an after dinner quiz
which we all fail at terribly but some of the questions are rather obscure. Off to bed as we have a busy
day tomorrow. I am feeling a bit down as things are not looking as I expected them to be. However
that is all going to change and quickly too.
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| View from our room |
Monday March 11th.
Breakfast is accompanied by another snowy blizzard. We are wondering if we will get to go out, but no fear on that score. Full of Scottish eggs, bacon and mushrooms we set off to Strathdearn via Dava moor and Lochindorb. Typically the storm moves away and blue skies appear. Snow blankets the
heather and makes the perfect backdrop for spotting Red Grouse. They oblige us by majestically displaying the red wattles above the eye. We see lots of tracks of mountain hares but alas no actual hares.
We round a bend on the snow blanketed single track and dropping over a slight hill we are greeted by
the sight of a ruined castle in the middle of the loch. The sky is as blue as a forget me not and the snow is sparkling in the sunshine. There are 6 sharp intakes of breath as we come across this scene.
Iolo has a much sharper eye than John the other guide. They keep in contact via walkie talkies. Iolo is always calling us back as he has spotted something. Our list of birds soon racks up. We stop for some lunch which is eaten on the hoof. Sandwich in one hand and binoculars in the other, scanning the top of the hills for Golden Eagle. We are curiously watched by a herd of young male Red Deer as they peer down at us from the crest of the hill. Our tootsies are getting a bit cold and we are impatient to see an eagle. We are just about to get back in the vans when Iolo gives the call. Up to the left of the brow of the hill a young Goldie. Heading back to Dava moor another wildlife tour vehicle gets stuck in the snow. John is laughing but is reluctant to help out. These things always turn out badly he says.
After 10 minutes or so they have to help out. As soon as the men trying to dig out the van spot Iolo,
they stop helping grab cameras and start taking his photo. He soon has them organised and the van is
moved back to a place where it can grip the road.
The snow is thawing and so are the personalities (well most of them). People get settled in and accustomed to each other. A glass of wine helps for those that drink ( we are in the minority and also lots of them are veggies)
We get back about 5.30 and meet at 6.30 to discuss the days events and do a checklist. Another delicious dinner is followed by Iolo giving a talk about how he started working before tv, which was
very entertaining to say the least.
Forgot to mention the Mountain Hare Phill spotted snoozing up the mountain side.
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| Red Grouse |
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| Curlew |
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| Mad March Hares |
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| Lapwing |
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| Mountain Hare. |
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| Bald Birders |
Tuesday 12th March.
We start the day with a Scottish breakfast, what else? Which when we have all layered up our clothing ( dressing in the morning takes some time. Thermal long johns, warm walking trousers, waterproof trousers, thermal vest, tee shirt, micro fleece, waterproof jacket, scarf, hat, gloves. 2 pairs of socks and walking boots) we walk (like yeti's) from the hotel to the Anagach woods in the hope of seeing crested tits. There is no snow this morning but glorious sunshine again. There are no crested tits about so we go to pick up the van and head off to loch Garten. Lots of birds on the feeders but none that we are looking for. We move off after Iolo has spoken to just about everyone that recognises him and pats every dog in sight.
We lunch on the edge of a wood, one eye on the sandwich one eye scanning the trees. Close by are some feeders and just at the last minute we are treated to a visit from a crested tit, a smart little bird and one of the reasons why we came here. Thoroughly frozen we thaw out in the van en route to the Cairngorm mountain.
We start the climb up and the weather deteriorates rapidly. We meet a snow plough on its way down, luckily it has just cleared some snow but the road is very icy. At the top the wind is howling! The horizontal snow has returned and things are looking bleak. We are here to spot Snow Bunting and Ptarmigans. Iolo is off to do a recce, the wind is nearly blowing him off his feet. Soon he gives us the word there are snow bunting about. The others sit in the van, ooh don’t think I’ll get out says Sue . John and Ian head up some steep steps. I follow leaving the others behind keeping warm. Well Iolo half carried me if the truth be told. The snow is cutting into my eyes I need some goggles it is extremely cold, windy and icy. Hugely exhilarating, I have never experienced anything like this. The little buntings hop around eating the seed we have thrown down. They are the most gorgeous little bird and hardy as hell. Iolo is sheltering us from the wind and snow he is some tough guy. Soon we have to get down as we are starting to shiver,
Back in the van and everyone is euphoric, yes eventually they all joined in. I cannot explain the massive high we all got from that experience strange but wonderful. We were smiling all the way home. Another great ice breaker if you will forgive the pun.
It has also had the effect of bringing John out of his grumpiness as all of a sudden he is talking and friendly. He also appears to know his birds too. Sue remains deaf and cannot see any of the birds, and insists on sitting up front so she can hear. Iolo has the patience of a saint.
5pm and its Scottish high tea time. This consists of a choice of Mac N Cheese with chips, scampi, steak pie or gammon. Some other choices too. Portions are large, we were expecting small at this time of day. Then it is followed by scones, jam and cream. Scots pancakes, cakes, tea cakes and crumpets. They all looked delicious but couldn't find the room in my tummy for one.
Guess what it is snowing hard again. We are supposed to be going up to a hide to see Pine Marten. me thinks there ain't no way we are going out in the this. Wrong again. 6.15 we pile back into the vans and drive about an hour. Pitch black roads covered in snow and visibility very poor. Us southern softies would have barricaded the doors and stoked up the fire for the foreseeable.
It is so bad that they decide to drive up the track to the hide and too cold and windy to walk it. Luckily the hide has heaters and outside floodlights for viewing so its quite cosy.
After about an hour we are all told to keep extremely quiet at which point Ian trips over a chair. Never mind we all trip over a chair by the end of the night much to the annoyance of the guide who then promptly does it herself.
Getting fed up, then there is a sighting of a badger who mysteriously vanishes into thin air. 15 minutes it returns with a friend and then another one. We are just about to call it a day when Lisa says in very hushed tones "the pine marten is here" we all carefully go to the other side of the hide and he is eating peanuts just about 2ft away from us, very special to see that.
Frantic driving back to the hotel as we are late for cheese & biscuits and wine. Then bed as another busy day tomorrow.
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| Male Siskin |
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| Great Spotted Woodpecker |
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| Snowy Snow Buntings |
Wednesday 13th March.
After another sumptuous brekkie we head off to the Moray Firth. Today's itinerary has been swapped as bad weather is forecast for Friday.
We are looking for sea ducks. Scoters, Eiders, Long Tailed and Slavonian Grebes. Might be lucky to see a bottle nosed Dolphin.
The weather today is spectacular, blue skies and sunny. Its breezy and chilly but we are getting hardened to it now.
We don't get the Dolphin but see most of the others. Anyway the scenery is stunning. We are at Findhorn bay, Spey Bay, Hopeman, Burghead and Lossiemouth. It was beautiful. I think we might have had a squally shower or two but the memory is of a sunny day.
After Ian and I managed to escape from the rear of the van as the others rushed off to order dinner without letting us out and John had to come to our rescue, we had the evening debrief and bird count. Followed by a rubbish dinner - only joking I cant keep saying how wonderful it is but the food is so good here.
Thursday 14th March
6.30 Breakfast to provide sustenance for today's trip to the West Coast. Bit of a drive to get there but we are kept entertained by stories of "the Watches" and other tales.
We visit Gruinard bay, Loch Maree, Little Loch Broom There is a beautiful spot called Mellon Udrigle which is a fantastic beach. We were high up on the west coast, level with Lewis and Harris.
Today's we are looking for Golden and White tailed Eagle, Divers (of the feathered variety) and if lucky an Otter.
Alas no Otter but eagles and sea ducks. Spectacular views, sea air and many other birds. We have coffee in a lovely cafe in Gairloch we decide we would like to come back and stay here. Iolo spends most of his time here stroking and talking to the many dogs that are around.
A very wet and rainy drive back but lots of sightings of Red Deer right by the road side.
Managed to force down another dinner. I only do 1 or 2 courses but nearly everyone else goes for the 3 courses.
Some also have kippers for breakfast. I might be able to stomach that for brunch but at 7am no thanks.
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| ha ha caught in the act of stuffing our faces |
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Friday 15th March.
The last day. Yep its snowing again. We are all downstairs at 7am dressed up in all our gear as we are going to the Black grouse lek. It is snowing so hard that we cannot see across the field. John decides that we need to move venue so there is a break neck speed race to somewhere top secret (not that I have a clue where it is or how to get there). The snow has eased somewhat by the time we arrive but no grouse. As always just about to leave when they fly in. As it is raining John and Anne decide they are not getting out and again Ian & I are trapped. We politely but firmly tell them to let us out. There must have been about 12 birds there and we had an excellent view once out of the van.
Back to the hotel for a well earned breakfast not that we had done any walking or anything. Clothing was soaked so it all had to go into the drying room while we ate breakfast. It was lovely and cosy warm when we put it back on again.
Today we visit the black Isle and the Inner Moray Firth. The weather is very squally and its a game of get back to the van as fast as you can when the dark descends as it is upon you before you know it.
It is also the day of a thousand rainbows.
We manage some great views from Cromarty and some Red Throated Divers. Miss out on the Otters again.
Farewell dinner followed by a couple of drinks in the bar whilst chewing the cud of the day and week.
We have had the best time here. Absolutely loved it. The changeable weather made the experience so special. We met some fab people and learnt a lot. One thing is that we must make an effort to visit Scotland more than we do. We have never been up this far before and are determined to come back and explore more.
We saw 96 species of birds and 10 Mammals not bad! And didn't we pack a lot into our days.
Click on the photos to get a better view.
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| Farewell photo and yes it is snowing. |
