Vietnam and the Mekong Delta

Tai Chi was at 6.30 again. Didn't make it today.

Yesterday was spent sunbathing and viewing the shoreline. We travelled out of Phnom Penh down to the border to cross into Vietnam. I was expecting a large customs, police or even military presence but it was quite the non event. At the border we dropped anchor mid stream and stayed ther for 2 hours or so whilst someone went ashore with (our passports).
There is a great debate wether or not we need a visa. We were told no while other have paid £30 for one.
Anyway we are not thrown off the boat or left behind in Cambodia so I guess it’s ok. No visa or charges for one either.
I spend some of the time having a massage and then we are treated to a cooking demonstration and learn how to make spring rolls and chicken amok which are delicious.


Tan Chau to My Anh Hung


Today we are taken off the boat into a town of which I forget the name (My Anh Hung). We have spent the last few days learning Cambodian and now have a whole new language to learn. The town is very busy and we are taken on a tour of the town by  trishaw. One person perched atop a shallow seat in a cart pulled by another poor man on a bicycle. We set off at a rate of knots, we try to cling on while taking in the sights. Vietnam is very different to Cambodia. The people seem a bit less genteel than Cambodians.
We tour round a local market, live chickens and live fish for sale both kept in horrendous conditions. Lots of fresh fruit and veg. Most of our group are turning veggie after that experience.

Salted egg recipe. Take fresh eggs and cover them in black salt and leave for 2 months then boil until hard. Enjoy! Blerrgh not sure what they taste like but it must be an acquired taste. Saw some in a hotel and the white of the egg was black.

We then get taken down the river to a fish farm. The fish, over 100 thousand of them are kept underneath a floating house. They are fed with a stinking mix of dead fish, sweet potato and god knows what else. The fish food is cooked up in ah uge vat it looks and smells vile. It comes out of the vat like a giant poo and into a mincer, then into the water to fed the fish. Bassa or Tilapia you may have seen it in the supermarkets back home. I don’t think I will be able to eat it again.
There is a great mix of people on board the Jayavarman. English, French, German, Swiss, Austrians, Kiwis and

Some variety of crab

Salted eggs

Fish food jobbie.

yesterday we were joined by 18 Americans who are on a cycling tour. They are a bit noisy but go off on their bikes everyday and come back later on.
There is a horrid beetle here, it’s only a tiny thing but if you squish it and get the juice on your skin it leaves a terrible reaction. People are pooling antibiotics and antibiotic cream. One man has been affected on his head and the poison has travelled into his eye. Not good.
Well we have just left the place with no name and are sailing for a couple of hours so it’s time I went up onto the sun deck for a snooze.

Phnom Penh

Another beautiful sunrise greets us this morning. We stand on our balcony and watch the sun rise and hear the Buddhist monks chanting carry down the Mekong.

Although up guess what didn't make Tai Chi.

We are taken to the Killing fields. It is eerie and a quiet place, we can see the clothes of the victims still in the ground, poking through the earth in the mass graves. Most have been completely excavated but some remain untouched. I am not going to put any details in here, however it is so recent and you feel it.
Next we travel to S21 which is the prison and torture place before being killed a buried in mass graves. The torture inflicted was absolutely barbaric. There is a memorial and lots of pictures of the people that were held there and you can walk around the minute cells where they were held. We don’t stay long.

It is an absolute scorcher today and after a very fine lunch we head off to the Kings Palace and Silver Pagoda. It is beautiful and opulent. It is quite sickening when there is so much poverty outside of the golden palace gates.
The Cambodian people are so lovely, smiling happy and beautiful people. Again it is clear to us that the Buddhist teaching is a good way of life.
We have cyclos to take us back to the boat. There is much discussion as to which way we should go. There is one person per cyclo and you sit in front of the poor cyclist. My peddler wants to go one way but other shout him down. Off we go at a rate of knots 3 of us in the front vie for pole position. There get dangerously close to each other and other traffic in the crowded streets. We then stop, nowhere near the river. Hmm much more whaaa choyyy acchhh etch and off we go again, finally find the boat. Much bowing and tipping the poor men who are a bit hot now.
After a beer to cool us down we head off for the market. I purchase 2 pairs of short for 5$
Mr F buys some elephant trousers, wonder if he will ever use them. They are selling Levi and Calvin Klein shorts for peanuts.
Dinner last night was a bbq on the sun deck. It is so lovely to sit outside and eat in the evening. We are treated to some Cambodian Apsara dancing. Ian and I groan as we saw this is Siem Reap and it was poor and ear splitingly screechy. However this was a real professional performance, fabulous dancing, precision and beauty. Also some humour with the Monkey and the Buddha dance.

 

These ARAMARK workwear trousers were for sale in the night market in Phnom Penh along side Calvin Klein have we been missing something all these years.

Tonle Sap River

Last night we sailed down towards Phnom Penh and then turned up the Tonle River. This is a much narrower river than the Mekong. We are greeted with a sunrise at 6 am and green river banks very close to the boat. The trip is amazing so much to take in.
There are only 40 people on the boat which is really nice. There are not many birds around which is a shame but this morning I can see whiskered Terns flying past.

Missed Tai Chi at 6.30 am again. Although we were awake.

We get off the Jayvarman onto Sanpans, flat bottomed boats, and sail around a Vietnamese floating village. We are still in Cambodia and these are immigrants that live on the water here. They settled here in the 1980s

We then get transferred by bus to a small rural village and see a local man climbing up the palm trees to collect sap to make into palm sugar. He is a great character full of smiles and laughter. We also watch a young girl making pots out of clay. She gets paid $6 a day and make 40 pots. Someone not me or even Ian steps on one that she has just made and put in the sun to dry.
Back on the boat and this afternoon we are exploring another village by Ox Cart. Being on the boat is a great way to get about and see different places. Places that you cannot get to by road and not touristy.
It is lovely and cool this morning, this afternoon it is getting warmer and warmer, hotter and hotter. Super fantastic.
This afternoon was very hot as pre-warned. We were transferred to Green School which is financially supported by the Heritage Line. The transportation consisted of a long cart with 20 people on board. It was pulled by a single man on a motorbike. Not sure if we had the fattest people on our cart but the man had difficulty in getting it moving. Just driving on a dust track, dry but well rutted, it was slipping around alarmingly. A steep bank on both sides, we had nothing to hold onto and only a narrow ledge onto which we all perched.
Somehow we arrived unscathed well physically anyway. The children eye us warily, but soon are clamouring for high 5’s. They sing us 2 songs and we play a game with them where we draw pictures and they have to tell us in English what it is. One man drew a train, they did not know what a train was. They showed off their writing skills and talked to us enthusiastically. A very boisterous version of old MacDonald was our farewell song. Then they all came to say goodbye, they wanted high 5’s and hugs. It was so uplifting to see them so happy and so happy to learn.
Ian and I clamber aboard our ox cart for the journey home past rice paddies and lotus ponds

. I am very close to the backside of the oxen, hoping it has had its poo for the day.

Back on board! Cold ginger and honey tea and a snooze in the sun.
We have just docked in Phnom Penh. A full day tomorrow, might be a bit harrowing.
Li Hi for now.

Aboard the Jayavarman Mekong river

As the water levels are low we had to transfer to Kampong Chang via coach and not get the boat from Siem Reap. Bit of a shame as the coach transfer was 4.5 hrs. Anyway soon aboard and welcome with a cool ginger tea. Then we are treated to traditional dance and music from the children of Chiro Village school. We have a lovely lunch as we set sail to a temple along the river. I decide to stay on board and Ian goes off with his new friend Murray who lives in Napier New Zealand. They visit Wat Hanchay a 7th century pre-Angkorian temple on a hill.
The boat is lovely everything we need and wish for. We are in the upper Mekong at the moment so it is quiet on the river, only fishing boats. We are told it will get much busier when we get onto the main river. It is so peaceful here and whilst the itinerary is busy you can pick and choose what to do. In the evening we have a welcome Champers party followed by another wonderful meal, buffet and lots to choose from. Wine and beer is included with lunch and dinner a bonus as we did not expect that.
We chat with our fellow guests Jackie and Murray from NZ and John and Marianne from St Albans. We have all done a fair bit of travelling so lots to talk about.

Now it is Sunday 27th, we are woken at 6 am by a really loud noise which we think is the anchor being lifted. We have been anchored mid stream all night. The boat is so smooth you hardly notice it moving. 
Oh dear missed Tai Chi at 6.30am.
We are cruising down stream to Angkor Ban village.

A light breakfast well for me. Mr F is having his usual Asian noodle soup and anything else of interest he can find. We have been told they eat crickets and tarantulas here. Not seen any tarantulas thank goodness, but they were selling fried crickets at Angkor Wat.
The boat moors up and we clamber up a grassy bank as the river level is so low and cannot reach the steps to the quay.
We walk around the tiny Cambodian village of Angkor Ban  and see Buddhist Monks they are extremely young. However joining the temple and becoming a monk is the way they can survive and get an education. There are 2 monkeys tied up under neath a house. I don't like it, neither do the monkeys. The Cambodian children are excited to see us. Tourism has not had an impact here yet, so no expectation of gifts or money from the people. I don’t mean that in a stingy way just that we have not impacted on their way of life.
There is a Cambodian wedding going on, the noise, wailing, is at a terrific volume. All the village is at the wedding so not a lot of normal village life going on.
We see the people bring back peanuts to dry out, huge carts pulled by oxen.
Back on board and we have a blessing by the Buddhist monks. Then it’s up on deck where I write this a have a lovely ginger tea.
WiFi a bit sketchy but will try to keep you updated as much as possible.

Anchored overnight mid river at Kampong Chhnang.

Angkor Wat and all that.

A dreadful nights sleep, Mr Wriggly was in the bed. Woken by alarm after just having dropped off grr. Stumble around breakfast buffet in a bit of a daze. Not as good as the Novotel.

Tee meets us at 9 am we are still struggling to understand everything he says but get the gist of most of it.
We start off with a tour of the temples of the small circuit Ta Prohm is the 1st built 12 th to 13th century so rather old. It has been left largely as it was crumbling and overgrown by jungle trees and vine. One of these trees is called Spung, we see a lot of Spung growing out of the temple stones. We clamber over the fallen stones up and down steps and in and out and all around. It is hot but not oppressive. Tee is commentating all the time. We are smiling and nodding and trying not to fall over. After about 2 hrs we move onto temples of the large circuit Preah Khan and then after another hour or so to Neak Peen which is in the centre of a natural lake and surrounded by 4 ponds. I am sure we did another temple but can’t remember which one. We are literally on our knees now hot and sweaty and very tired. 5 hours we have been walking it’s been great but need to sit. We stop for a quick lunch and a small beer which was greedily drunk by both of us so cool and refreshing. Back to the hotel. We just have time for a cup of tea, chocolate anniversay cake (still going) a shower and back out at 3.30.
We have a special tour of the Famous Angkor Wat temple. We travel there by tuk tuk. This temple was built in the reign of King Suryavarman 11. The temple walls are covered with ornate carvings. Tee is. Commentating again we are nodding and smiling and taking in as much as we can. We watched the sun set and reflect its golden light onto the temple. Absolutely beautiful.
Another quick shower, cocktail and dinner. I am so sleepy I nearly fall asleep in my duck curry, which by the way was delicious. This was quickly followed by a heavy and heavenly sleep.
Friday Jan 25th.
Today we visit the ancient city of Angkor Thom. It is cooler today at 9am only 77.
Angkor Thom was the last capital of the great Khmer Empire built in the reign of Jayvarman v11.
There are 54 gods and demons that guard the entrance. They are holding the sacred Naga snake 🐍 See we did take some of it in.
Then we visit Bayon temple. This has 54 towers. The sacred lucky number nine is very significant here. Each tower has 4 faces on it. See photos. We walk to the terrace of the elephants and the terrace of the leper king. A nice easy morning. We are back at the hotel by 11.30 and spend the afternoon mainly asleep.
Now we are going into town via tuk tuk for dinner and then an early night as 6.00 wake up as we depart at 7.30 and travel to join up with our boat.
That’s all for now folks... oh just remembered you can buy gasoline in plastic bottles by the side of the road. It is all on a rack in various shapes and size bottles, like old juice bottle all are plastic and many of which are leaking. All looks pretty lethal! No health and safety here.

Bangkok to Cambodia

A lazy breakfast followed by a short trip to the airport. Quite impressed with the airport, immigration and departure very swift.
Bangkok air flight to Siem Reap very good, flight only half full if that. They managed to serve a Thai lunch to those that wanted it (Mr F said it was good) and a drink which had to be swallowed in one gulp lucky it was only tea and not a G and T.
Flying into Cambodia the place looks like one giant swamp. A pond on the side of the landing strip is full of herons, lots of them.
Immigration at bit stern but swift. Glad we had our visas already although much paperwork had to be completed.
Our guide is waiting for us with a sign that says. Welcome Mrs Ann and Mr Lan Floody. His name is Tea and the drivers name sounds like an extremely rude word. Eh say again, yep that’s what we thought you said. Anyway Tea is spouting off nineteen to the dozen, we nod and agree. No idea what is going on.
Arrive at the Sofitel hotel,  my but it is grand. When we booked this holiday way back when. It was to celebrate our 30th anniversary. Forgot we said that, anyway on arrival we are greeted with a bouquet of lotus flowers and a decoration of jasmine flowers for good luck and health.
Our room is very nice overlooks the pool. There is a wildlife pond full of fish and many birds flying about. It is French speaking here because it is a French owned hotel which even the staff find strange.
We have a cocktail to settle in and decide to go into town for dinner. Showered and dressed we get a Tuk tuk to Viroths. We have Fresh rolls to start. Lovely salad veg & herbs wrapped in rice roll with dipping sauce. Ian had amok fish which was fish in a coconut sauce and I had Laab which was minced beefs with chilli, lemon grass, onion, galangal and mint. It was truly delicious. Even managed a glass or 2 of French Rose. Tuk Tuk home. Back in room and a chocolate cake awaits us. That’s gone in the fridge for tomorrow.
Another busy day tomorrow. Night night.

Bangkok City Tour

Alarm wakes us from a deep sleep at 6.30 am. Just want to sleep, but so much to see today.
After a Thai style sumptuous breakfast which was taken outside in glorious warmth, we meet up with our guide for the morning.
Anapornon is her name she has very good ingrish but with her accent and our continued blocked heads we struggle to understand her.
We take the hotel tuk tuk to catch the sky train. It is rush hour so very busy. The train is mainly filled with very young people off to work in the new business area of the city. We are headed to the old quarter. There is no smog today but most people wear face masks because of the pollution. We switch trains and 6 stops later are getting on a boat on the ( can’t remember the name of the river) Chao Phraya River. It is wild, the tide is high and running inland. The pontoons rise and fall at an alarming rate. We are on the business "no foreigner" boat and must hurry to board and disembark. Anapornon has already clocked that I am not the steadiest of people. I am having visions of me falling into the turbulent river never to be seen again.
Water hyacinth floats in huge swathes, dredgers come everyday to scoop it up. We see several already fully loaded so early in the day.
Our first destination is the Grand Palace  no royalty live here now. It is used for funerals and ceremonies only. There are several buildings the most ornate and colourful we have ever seen. Studded with coloured glass, gilded with gold leaf and ornately carved. Ana tells us all the history and about the various kings who have ruled. It is very very hot, we have to wear long sleeves and full trousers so are feeling it a bit. After an hour or so we are flagging,  after some cold water and a tuk tuk ride to Pho Wat we are ready for stage 2. This is a magnificent place many ornate temples the school for meditation and massage (need one) loads of Buddhas here, sitting Buddha, standing Buddha, reclining Buddha, smiling Buddha, you get the picture. However the reclining Buddha is the biggest Buddha we have seen and we have seen a few.
Enough Buddhas. We go to the wholesale market ginger, galangal, chillies fill the air with the most amazing mix of aromas. Some ladies are chopping vast amounts of ginger. We eat mangos freshly peeled and chopped with sticky rice and coconut milk. It is very sweet but refreshing.we tour around the flower market. The colours and perfume are so vibrant, big bunches of orchids for 8 bhat 25p.
More water as starting to flag again.
We catch the tourist boat back and sit on the top deck, the breeze is blissful the hot sun on our face we are tired but happy bunnies. 2 more sky trains (wonderful aircon) and a short walk we are back home. We collapse on the bed, worn out. It is a much as we can do to prise ourselves out of the room and onto a sun bed. The beds are actually in the pool so we dangle our tired feet in the cool water and promptly fall asleep.
Things we have learned today.
Everyday of the week has a colour Saturday is mine Purple. Ian is pink tuesday. Sunday is red Weds is blue can’t remeber any others.
The old king of Thailand died 2 years ago. New king not popular as he does not like ThIland and lives in Munich so we are told.
Anapornon does not like the Chinese as they are uncouth loud and eat in the street. Look Look she says to me, they are eating mango in the street can you believe it. She is telling people off all the time for making too much noise, pointing their feet at Buddha and being disrespectful in general.
Massages are very cheap and ten a penny down all the streets.
After the pool snooze we get ready and go the the lounge for a gin or several if your name is Ian. We then walk down the street into the warm night air, have a beer and some food. Mr F is having a hot curry hmmmmm we have a flight to catch tomorrow.
We had a wry smile to ourselves as 2 people in the hotel were going through a presentation they were making tomorrow. Ah those were the days..... not.

Bangkok day 2

A superb day. Absolutely zonked out, off to bed 21.33 hope to update you tomorrow.
 En route to Cambodia. Night night.

Bangkok

Welcome to Bangkok. Oooh it’s hot here. Flight was ok, Blocked head and ears were fine. Not a lot of sleep though.
Bangkok traffic very busy, city quite smoggy this morning. Feeling rather dazed and fazed at present. However feeling much better than we have been doing. It’s 2.30 in the afternoon, just had a snooze and now need to get out and about a bit. Spent all last night trying to sleep and today trying to stay awake.
We have executive status here in this hotel, access to exec lounge etc etc. However our bedroom is a bit strange as the bathroom / shower has glass walls which means you can see people in the shower from your bed and visa  versa. As I say welcome to Bangkok.

Itinerary

First stop Thailand, Bangkok 2 nights

Fly to Siem Reap in Cambodia 3 nights

Drive to Kampong Thom to board river cruiser for 7 nights.

Ho Chi Min City 2 nights

Phu Quoc for 4 nights ( just chillin here)

And finally “1 night in Bangkok” dah dah.

Indochina 2019

Well it’s been a long time but I am hoping to revive Mrs F’s Diary for our upcoming trip. Having both been suffering from an evil cold for 2 weeks and Mr F getting a chest infection we are today hopeful that we are going to make it. (ooh that’s tempting fate) Just need to clear my head and get to grips with the itinerary and what the hell to pack.